Poultry in motion: The ubiquitous Buffalo wing, as assessed by a local who loves 'em

BUFFALO — You know the old saying: You can take the wing out of Buffalo, but you can’t take the Buffalo out of the wing. Ok, fine, that’s not a saying. But it’s true that Buffalo chicken wings are so ubiquitous that people forget where they came from — unless you’re from Buffalo. kAm*6D[ J@F 42? 7:?5 E96> 6G6CJH96C6i J@FC =@42= AF3[ 492:?D =:<6 (:?8 $E@A @C qF772=@ (:=5 (:?8D[ E96 7C@K6? 7@@5 2:D=6 @7 E96 DFA6C>2C<6E WD@>6E:>6D — 82DAP — 3@?6=6DDX] %96? E96C6 2C6 E96 @77D9@@EDi qF772=@\7=2G@C65 A@E2E@ 49:AD[ A62?FED 2?5 AC6EK6=D] %96C6’D qF772=@ C2?49 D2=25 5C6DD:?8[ qF772=@ >24\2?5\4966D6[ qF772=@ 42DD6C@=6D]k^Am kAmq24< :? E96 52J[ E9@F89[ E96C6 H2D @?=J @?6 A=246 H96C6 J@F 4@F=5 86E E96D6 7:6CJ 7=2G@C 3@>3D E92E 42? @?=J 36 E2>65 H:E9 3=F6 4966D6 5C6DD:?8] *@F 8F6DD65 :Ei qF772=@]k^Am kAm%9:D 7@C>6C DE66= E@H? EF4<65 2H2J :? H6DE6C? }6H *@C< ?62C E96 r2?25:2? 3@C56C :D 9@>6 E@ E96 86?C6’D @C:8:?2= H:?8] %6C6DD2 q6==:DD:>@ 42>6 FA H:E9 E96 C64:A6 =2E6 @?6 ?:89E :? |2C49 `hec H9:=6 7665:?8 96C D@? 2?5 9:D 9F?8CJ 7C:6?5D] %@52J[ E92E D2>6 C64:A6 :D D6CG65 FA 2E E96 p?49@C q2C]k^Am kAmqFE E96C6 2C6 =@25D @7 A=246D J@F 42? 86E 8C62E H:?8D :? qF772=@] ~? 2 C646?E 72>:=J G:D:E[ x 5:D4@G6C65 q2C\q:== %2G6C?[ H96C6 J@F 42? @AE 7@C 2 “DF:4:52= H:?8” E@ 36 >:I65 :? H:E9 2 32E49 @7 >:=56C H:?8D 2?5 E96? 8F6DD H9@ D?28865 :E 3J H2E49:?8 E96:C 7246 >6=E]k^Am kAmpE sF77’D u2>@FD (:?8D[ J@F 86E J@FC 49@:46 @7 >:=5[ >:=5 >65:F>[ >65:F> =:89E[ >65:F>[ >65:F> 9@E 2?5 9@E[ H:E9 2 H2C?:?8 E92E “>65:F> :D 9@E” 2?5 “9@E :D G6CJ[ G6CJ 9@E]” %96 72:?E @7 962CE H:== 8@ 7@C >:=5[ E96 3C2G6 H:== 8@ 7@C 9@E[ 2?5 E9@D6 H9@ @C56C =6>@? A6AA6C H:?8D H:== 36 ;F5865]k^Am kAm(:?8D 7C@> qF772=@ D6A2C2E6 E96>D6=G6D 7C@> :>A@DE@CD H:E9 E96:C 566A\7C:65 4C:DAJ @FE6C =2J6C 5C6?4965 :? G:?682CJ 9@E D2F46[ 4@2E:?8 E96 E6?56C >62E :?D:56] *@F 62E 6?@F89 @7 E96D6 2?5 E96 C:>D @7 J@FC =:AD H:== 3FC? 2?5 J@FC D<:? H:== 36 DE2:?65 :? C65]k^Am kAm(9:=6 =@ED @7 A=246D @FED:56 @7 qF772=@ 4=2:> E@ 92G6 >2DE6C65 E96 H:?8[ x 92G6 J6E E@ 7:?5 @?6 E92E E2DE6D =:<6 9@>6] p?5 >2J36 E92E’D 3642FD6 x 2DD@4:2E6 E9:D 7@@5 H:E9 7C:6?5D 2?5 72>:=J 2?5 2 4:EJ E92E x =@G6[ E96 r:EJ @7 v@@5 }6:893@CD] r@?EC2CJ E@ A@AF=2C 36=:67[ :E’D ?@E ;FDE D?@H W2=E9@F89 E96C6’D =@ED @7 :EX 2?5 2 7@@E32== E62> E92E =@DE E96 $FA6C q@H= 7@FC 962CE3C62<:?8 E:>6D :? 2 C@H W3FE E9:D J62C :D @FC J62C — v@ q:==DPX]k^Am kAm~?6 @E96C E9:?8 E@ H:?8D]k^Am